How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

To replace a kitchen faucet, you will shut off the water supply, disconnect the old faucet and its supply lines, mount the new faucet to the sink or countertop, connect the water lines, and test for leaks. Most homeowners can finish the job in two to four hours with basic hand tools, provided the sink holes and shutoff valves are in reasonable condition. This guide walks through each stage in order, explains what to check before you buy, and points out the mistakes that cause the most trouble.

Before You Start: Check Compatibility and Gather Tools

Before you remove anything, confirm that the new faucet will fit your sink. Kitchen sinks are drilled in several configurations, and a faucet that does not match the holes is the most common reason a replacement stalls halfway through the job.

Shopping for one? See our guide: Delta Tap Kitchen Faucet Review: Key Features Explained.

Measure your sink holes

Look at the sink deck (the surface the faucet sits on) and count the holes. Single-hole sinks take a single-handle faucet. Three-hole sinks usually take a widespread faucet with separate hot and cold handles and a spout, or a center-set faucet where the three pieces are mounted close together. Four-hole sinks often include a side sprayer hole. Measure the center-to-center distance between the outer holes on a three-hole sink. Standard spacing is 4 inches for center-set and 8 inches for widespread, though confirm the exact spec on the faucet box.

Confirm the mounting style

Check whether the faucet mounts through the deck (requires a hole for every component) or to the sink body (for sinks with no pre-drilled holes). Also check the deck thickness. Most faucets specify a range, often up to about 2 inches, and a deck that is too thick may need longer mounting hardware.

Tools and supplies you will need

• Adjustable wrench and basin wrench (the basin wrench reaches nuts under the sink)
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Bucket and old towels
• Plumber’s putty or a silicone gasket, depending on the faucet’s instructions
• Plumber’s tape (PTFE tape) for threaded connections
• Screwdriver set and, for some models, an Allen key
• Flexible braided supply lines if the old ones are corroded or the wrong length
• Towel or pad to protect the cabinet floor

Step 1: Shut Off the Water and Relieve Pressure

Locate the two shutoff valves under the sink, one for hot and one for cold water. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If the valves are stiff or seized, do not force them hard. Instead, shut off the main water supply to the house and open the faucet to drain the lines.

1. Turn off both shutoff valves under the sink.
2. Turn on the faucet and let it run until the water stops. This releases pressure and drains residual water.
3. Place the bucket under the supply connections to catch leftover water.

If a valve drips or does not close fully after you turn it, the problem is likely the valve itself. Plan to replace it before you connect the new faucet.

Step 2: Remove the Old Faucet

Disconnect the supply lines

Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the nuts where the supply lines meet the shutoff valves. Hold the valve steady with a second wrench so you do not twist the pipe. Once loose, unscrew the supply lines by hand and set them aside.

Remove the mounting nuts

Under the sink, you will find mounting nuts or a mounting bracket holding the faucet to the deck. A basin wrench is the best tool here because its jaws grip the nut from the side. Turn the nuts counterclockwise until they come off. If the old faucet is stuck, check for old plumber’s putty or silicone around the base and carefully cut it free with a utility knife.

Lift out the faucet

From above, lift the faucet out of the sink holes. Keep the old gasket or mounting plate if it is still in place, so you can compare it to the new parts. Clean the deck surface of any leftover putty, mineral deposits or grime. A smooth, clean surface helps the new faucet seal properly.

Step 3: Prepare the Sink and Install the New Faucet

Read the manufacturer’s instructions before you start the install, since the order of assembly differs between models. Many newer faucets use a single mounting plate, while others need separate gaskets for each hole.

1. Place the new gasket or base plate on the deck, aligning it with the holes.
2. Apply plumber’s putty around the base if the instructions call for it. Use a thin rope, roll it between your palms and press it under the faucet base. Silicone-based gaskets do not need putty, so follow what the box says.
3. Feed the faucet body through the center hole (or holes), keeping the spout facing the direction you want.
4. From below, slide the washers and mounting nuts onto the threaded shanks. Tighten them evenly by hand, then finish with the basin wrench. Tighten just until the faucet is firm. Overtightening can crack porcelain or stainless sinks and can bend the faucet base.
5. If your faucet has a side sprayer or soap dispenser, install those components now using the same steps.

Step 4: Connect the Water Supply Lines

Most new faucets include flexible supply lines, and braided stainless steel lines are common replacements for older rubber ones. Use the lines that come with the faucet unless you have a specific reason to replace them.

1. Wrap the threads of each supply line with 3 to 4 wraps of plumber’s tape, wrapping clockwise when viewed from the open end of the pipe.
2. Connect the hot line to the hot shutoff valve and the cold line to the cold valve. Hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading.
3. Finish with a wrench, turning about a quarter to a half turn past snug. Do not overtighten plastic or compression fittings.
4. Make sure the lines are not kinked, twisted or pinched against cabinet edges.

Step 5: Turn On the Water and Test for Leaks

Slowly open the shutoff valves, starting with the cold side, then the hot. Turn the faucet on at low flow and let air clear from the lines. Watch the connections for drips and check the base of the faucet for moisture.

Run hot and cold water for at least a minute each. Check the spray pattern from the aerator, test any sprayer function, and confirm the handle moves smoothly through its range. Dry all connections with a towel and watch them again after 15 minutes. A slow drip often shows up only after the lines are fully pressurized.

Quick reference: common fittings and what to check

Connection	What to check	Typical fix if leaking
Supply line to shutoff valve	Drip at the nut	Add or redo plumber’s tape, tighten a quarter turn
Faucet base to deck	Water seeping around the base	Retighten mounting nuts evenly or reseat the gasket
Spout or aerator	Drip from spout tip	Clean or replace aerator, check cartridge seal
Shutoff valve stem	Leak when handle is turned	Tighten packing nut or replace valve

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Buying before measuring. Always compare the faucet’s hole requirements to your sink before you start.
• Forcing stuck valves. An old valve can break under pressure. If it will not turn, shut off the main supply instead.
• Overtightening nuts. Snug is enough. Excess force cracks sinks and damages fittings.
• Skipping the plumber’s tape. Threaded connections often leak without it.
• Crossing the hot and cold lines. Check the markings on the handles and lines before connecting.
• Ignoring the old supply lines. If they are cracked, bulging or more than a few years old, replacing them during the install is cheaper in time than a flood later.

Tips for a Smoother Installation

• Take a photo of the old setup before disconnecting anything. It helps when reassembling.
• Work with the cabinet doors open and a towel on the floor to catch drips.
• Keep small parts in a dish so nothing rolls into the cabinet.
• If the faucet has a pull-down sprayer, check that the hose runs freely before you tighten everything down.
• Check local plumbing codes if you are changing shutoff valves or moving water lines.

Recommended gear

A basin wrench is the tool that makes the biggest difference under a kitchen sink, since it reaches mounting nuts that a standard wrench cannot. Look for a model with a long shaft and adjustable jaws. View on Amazon

Braided stainless steel supply lines hold up better than rubber lines and are easy to find in the lengths you need for a standard sink install. View on Amazon

PTFE thread seal tape is inexpensive and makes threaded fittings much less likely to weep. View on Amazon

A small flashlight or headlamp is useful for reading nut markings and checking connections in a dark cabinet. View on Amazon

FAQ

How long does it take to replace a kitchen faucet?

Most first-time installers finish in two to four hours. Stuck nuts, corroded valves or a mismatched sink can add time.

Do I need a plumber to replace a kitchen faucet?

Many homeowners handle the job themselves if the shutoff valves work and the sink holes match the faucet. If valves are failing or the water lines need major changes, consult a licensed plumber.

Should I replace the supply lines when I replace the faucet?

It is a good idea if the old lines are cracked, stiff, bulging or the wrong length. New lines are inexpensive relative to the cost of water damage.

Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone?

Follow the faucet manufacturer’s instructions. Some faucets use a rubber gasket and need no putty, while others call for putty or silicone under the base.

What if my sink has only one hole and I want a three-handle faucet?

That combination usually will not work without a deck plate or a new sink. A deck plate can cover extra holes, but check whether your faucet is designed for it.

Why does my new faucet drip after installation?

Common causes are a loose supply connection, a poorly seated gasket or a cartridge that was not fully engaged. Retighten fittings and check the cartridge or valve seal as the manual describes.

How do I know if my shutoff valves need replacing?

If a valve drips, is hard to turn, or does not stop water fully, replace it before you connect the new faucet. Failing valves can leak or break when you need them most.

Can I replace a kitchen faucet without turning off the main water?

Often yes, if the individual shutoff valves under the sink close fully. If they do not, shut off the main supply to the house before you start.

Conclusion

Replacing a kitchen faucet is a manageable project once you confirm the fit, shut off the water safely, and take each connection slowly. Measure your sink, gather the right tools, and test for leaks before you call the job finished. If the valves or water lines are in poor shape, fix those first so the new faucet has a solid start.

Related reading

• Delta Touchless Kitchen Faucet Review (2026)
• Replace Bathroom Tub Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners
• Moen Bathroom Faucet Parts: Identify, Order and Replace Them Yourself

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